A Journey Through Iraqi Breakfast, Bazaars, and Culture with Davidsbeenhere

In a country often associated with its complex history, Iraq is now opening its doors to adventurous travelers seeking to explore its vibrant culture, historic landmarks, and delicious cuisine. One such explorer is David Hoffman, the travel vlogger behind the popular YouTube channel, Davidsbeenhere. In his latest video, "American in Baghdad: Exploring Iraqi Street Food, Bazaars, and More", David takes his audience on a journey through Baghdad, showcasing the beauty, flavors, and traditions of Iraq’s capital. Watch the full video here.
Starting the Day with a Traditional Iraqi Breakfast
David’s day begins early in Baghdad, where he heads out with his guide, Jaffar, to try one of Iraq’s most iconic breakfasts: Kahi and Geymar. Kahi is a flaky pastry, and Geymar is a thick, creamy topping made from buffalo milk, a specialty in the southern parts of Iraq. This hearty breakfast is often served with syrup drizzled on top and paired with traditional Iraqi tea.
As David digs into the dish, he is blown away by its richness, describing the combination of flaky, crispy pastry and smooth cream as "unreal." The sweetness of the syrup adds an extra indulgent layer to this already decadent meal. According to Jaffar, this dish is usually reserved for special occasions, such as Eid, due to its high-fat content. After a couple of bites, David is already feeling full, highlighting how filling and rich the meal is.
The Perfect Pairing: Iraqi Tea
Of course, no traditional Iraqi breakfast is complete without a cup of hot Iraqi tea. Tea plays an important role in Iraqi culture and is typically served in small glasses with a generous amount of sugar at the bottom. David quickly learns the local trick of pouring the tea back and forth between glasses to cool it down before taking a sip.
As he enjoys his tea, David shares some useful Arabic phrases he’s picked up during his travels. Learning simple phrases like "Shukran" (thank you) and "Ahlan" (hello) not only helps him navigate but also deepens his connection with the locals, who appreciate his efforts to engage in their language.
Exploring the Heart of Baghdad: The Bustling Bazaars
After breakfast, David and Jaffar head to Rashid Street, one of the oldest and most famous streets in Baghdad. Known for its historical significance and architectural beauty, Rashid Street is lined with beautiful columns that provide shade for pedestrians, offering a glimpse into Iraq’s rich urban design.
The journey continues as they make their way to the nearby copper bazaar, where David is greeted by the vibrant colors, sounds, and smells of the market. From spices like cardamom and saffron to intricate perfumes crafted on the spot, the bazaar is a sensory overload. David is particularly fascinated by the perfume-making process, where shopkeepers mix custom fragrances for customers right in front of their eyes.
One of the standout moments in the bazaar is when David learns about Nomi Basra, a dried lime that is a staple in Iraqi cuisine. This unique ingredient, named after the southern city of Basra, is known for its distinct flavor and is often used in traditional stews and teas.
Street Food Galore: Kebabs and More
No trip to Baghdad would be complete without sampling its famous street food, and David dives right in. At the bazaar, he tries a variety of Iraqi delicacies, starting with liver kebabs. The liver, seasoned with herbs and spices, is grilled to perfection, and David is impressed by the rich, smoky flavors. "This is so good," he exclaims as he takes another bite, appreciating the bold flavors that make Iraqi street food so special.
In addition to liver kebabs, David also samples tawa kebabs, a crispy, fried dish made from minced meat, onions, and spices. Served with fresh bread, this dish is perfect for a quick snack while exploring the bustling market.
The Warmth of Iraqi Hospitality
Throughout his journey, David is constantly met with the warmth and generosity of the Iraqi people. Whether it’s a vendor offering him free samples of traditional sweets or shopkeepers refusing to let him pay for souvenirs, the hospitality in Iraq leaves a lasting impression on him.
One such moment occurs when David tries Iraqi sweets at the bazaar, including a treat called Sak Sak, made from walnuts and a sugary syrup. Despite its intense sweetness, David can’t help but enjoy the flavors, describing the experience as "incredible." The vendor refuses to accept any payment, a gesture that showcases the deep-rooted hospitality in Iraqi culture.
Historical Landmarks: A Glimpse Into Iraq’s Past
Aside from the food and markets, David also takes time to explore some of Baghdad’s most significant historical sites. One such landmark is the Monument of Freedom, located in Liberation Square. This iconic structure commemorates the 1958 revolution that overthrew the Iraqi monarchy and symbolizes the struggle for freedom and progress in the country. The monument’s sculptures depict the various facets of Iraqi society, from farmers to soldiers, highlighting the unity and strength of the Iraqi people.
David also visits the Al-Mustansiriya School, a medieval madrasa (Islamic school) dating back to the 12th century. Once a center for learning in the Abbasid Caliphate, this historic site is a reminder of Iraq’s intellectual and cultural contributions to the world.
The Iraqi Bazaar Experience: More Than Just Shopping
As David continues to explore the bazaar, he encounters vendors selling everything from prayer beads to handcrafted jewelry. These markets are not only places to buy goods but also serve as social hubs where locals gather, chat, and enjoy a cup of tea.
David is particularly intrigued by the prayer beads, known as masbahas, which are used during prayer to count the recitation of phrases or verses. The intricate designs and craftsmanship of these beads showcase the artistry and devotion of the Iraqi people.
Baghdad—A City of Surprises
David Hoffman’s journey through Baghdad reveals a side of Iraq that many people may not expect. From its rich culinary traditions to its bustling bazaars and warm hospitality, Iraq is a country filled with surprises. Despite its tumultuous past, Iraq is slowly emerging as a destination for adventurous travelers seeking an authentic and immersive experience.
Through his video, David invites viewers to rethink their perceptions of Iraq and discover the beauty that lies within its borders. His exploration of Baghdad’s street food, markets, and historical landmarks offers a glimpse into the vibrant culture and resilient spirit of the Iraqi people.
For those looking to explore a destination off the beaten path, Baghdad is a city that should not be overlooked. Whether you’re sampling kahi and geymar for breakfast, haggling for souvenirs in the bazaar, or learning about the city’s rich history, Baghdad offers a unique travel experience that is unlike any other.
Watch David’s full adventure in Baghdad here, and start planning your own journey to this fascinating city.